Dimension

The relationship between dressing of kimono and dimensions

 I feel that the most common problems in dressing kimono are the collar area, such as the degree to which the collar is pulled, collar alignment, and the collar losing shape. The most difficult part of the process is pulling the collar, because it is a part of the garment that you cannot see directly when you put it on yourself, so you have to check it with your body's senses.
In addition, the collar is a very important part of the garment, where everyone's eyes are focused and where one's grace is expressed. Furthermore, It is an important point where woman's sex appeal is expressed. That is why I try to dress my customers with care so that the beautiful lines of the collar express these qualities.

The principle of the Emon is that it is created by attaching a kurikoshi in the tailoring process and pulling the collar when dressing. Currently, the size of the kurikoshi  is generally 5 to 7 bu. However, you should determine the size according to your own style of wearing.
For example, if you want to wear kimono with the collar space wider, you should make kurikoshi larger than that (1 sun), and if you want to it narrow, you should make it smaller.

 In addition, if the kurikoshi dimensions of the kimono and the Nagajuban are different, the collar may not fit close. The more I wear a kimono, the more I will learn the depth of the kimono, and the more I will want to find out how to make it look more beautiful.

 I believe that wearing clothes in a size that fits your body shape is an important point for being stylish.
For example, custom made or do a clothing alteration etc. I believe that these small differences, and consequently bring beauty to the appearance and make it more comfortable to wear and easier to move around in.
In view of these, I believe that fashion and size are closely related.

 The way of wearing kimono and body shape is each to their own. I think that one of the joys of fashion is to imagine the ideal way to wear a kimono, and to search for the perfect size while interacting to your body.

 Some kimono lovers say, "The comfort of a kimono depends on the way the kimono is sewed by the kimono sewist. I sincerely feel that kimonos are deeply and the pursuit of enjoyment is infinite.


寸法

最近の感心ごとである、着付けと寸法の関係性について。
着付けにおいて特に、衣紋の抜き加減、衿合わせ、衿元の着崩れ等、衿元の悩みが一番多いのではなかと感じています。その中でも衣紋の抜きに関しては、自分で着る時は直視できない部分である為、身体の感覚で確かめながら決めなければならなく、苦戦するものです。かつ、衿元は皆の視線が注がれ、品格が表れるとても重要な部分です。更には、色香が漂う、女性にとっては勝負ポイントでもあります。だからこそ、それらを表現する美しいラインとなる様、毎回丁寧に着付けることを心掛けております。

衣紋の原理は、仕立ての工程で繰越(くりこし)を付け、着付けの際に衿を抜くことで仕上がります。
現在、繰越の寸法は一般的に5〜7分とされていますが、衣紋を抜き気味に着たい方はそれよりも大きく(最大で一寸)つけ、逆にあまり抜かない方は小さくと、ご自身の着方に合わせて寸法を決めるのが良いかと思います。また、長襦袢ときものの繰越寸法が違うと衿が上手く沿わないこともあります。着れば着るほど、その奥深さを感じ、どうすれば美しい着姿になるのか、追求欲が湧いてきます。

洋服でも自分の体型に合ったサイズを着るこがお洒落をする上で大事なポイントだと考えます。
オーダーメイドをしたり、既製品でも袖が長ければお直しをしたりする。そのちょっとした差が、着姿に美しさをもたらし、着心地も良く動きやすいという効果まで生じると思うのです。
それゆえ、お洒落と寸法は密接な関係にあると考えます。

 着方だけでなく、体型も人それぞれです。理想とする着姿をイメージし、身体と対話しながらご自身に合う寸法を探究することもお洒落の楽しさの一つだと思います。
また、きものフリークの方の中には、「和裁士さんの仕立て方(縫い方)によっても着心地が違う」とおっしゃられる方がおられます。なんともきものは奥深かく、楽しみの追求も無限大にあるとしみじみ感じます。